The Fortress Group
GTO

Welcome to the origin of the Fortress Group - Fortress Automotive. The shop started in 1979 to service a left-in-the-cold segment of the performance enthusiasts. Pontiac seemed to be a forgotten cousin to Chevy as far as service or modifications went around here. The fact that engine mods for one do not work for the other, or that drive line set ups differ due to the Pontiac's torque output was ignored. So, I started using my experience to help Pontiac owners beat their cousins. Alot of GTO, 2+2, and Trans Am owners have been steady customers, helping to experiment and develope set ups. I have utilized as much information as I could from as many sources as I could find to keep them satisfied. Over the years the shop grew from one to five bays, and now most makes are serviced. Unfortunately, Pontiacs are declining in number fast, but the remaining are in determined hands.

Pontiac parts, especially performance parts, are getting difficult to find, and when found are high dollar pieces. My inventory has drastically shrunk like everyone else's, so I have run a locator service which now is part of this site to help out.

Services provided at the shop include:

• Custom carb work, Q-J's a specialty.
• Standard trans rebuilding.
• Engine overhauls.
• Wiring.
• Rear diff. rebuilding.
• Custom frames and suspensions.
• Creating small specialty parts.
• Welding.

• There was a batch of V-8 timing chain cam gears that were marked 180 deg. off at manufacture in the late 60's and still show up at parts houses. I got one two years ago. Verify gear alignment AND top dead piston / valve position. Both valves must be closed or set distributor 180 deg. around to #6.
• If you forgot the distributor/oil pump drive shaft until too late, grind the 'ears' off the shaft to drop in from top. Make sure it is seated by twisting with screwdriver.
• If you plan any performance mods, get the H-O Specialties books.
• Use only real oil. Slick 50 and others have been fined by the Feds and sued for their scams.
• The best final cleaning for cylinders is to use cheap toilet paper and Quaker State detergent oil. Roll a bunch around your hand and scrub around the bore. Change paper until it stays clean to the bottom. Try it after everything else and you'll be surprised.
• Deburr everything.
• If you are going to let a new motor set awhile before firing, do not use just white lithium grease during assembly as it dries out unless mixed liberaly with heavy oil.
• Do not use three angle valve jobs on Pontiacs. Hello Chevy.

• Keep initial timing under 12 deg. and use the curve for the rest.
• I still use point systems for almost everything. Cheaper, easier, and you can fix them any where. Do not forget the resistance feed wire if you convert from HEI.
• Champion plugs are a real no-no around here. AC and Autolite are favorites.

• The factory '67-69 Q-J intake is the way to go for street/strip.
• The non-EGR aluminium stock H-O + Ram Air intakes are the same, but lighter. Clean #8 runner's bumps out in both.
• Q-Js are the most tuneable carb, without buying lots of parts and kits.
• Check any factory books and see that there are only two sizes of Q-J; 750 & 800 cfm. Beware the '650', '430', '900' or what ever the paper ad says.
• Run the PCV and brakes off the carb base or spacer rather than one runner.
• EGR does not harm performance as it is on only at cruise and deceleration.
• Air pumps only cost about 1 HP.

• Remote oil filters are a real nicety with headers or low chassis. Duals are even better.
• Cut open every oil filter changed to inspect for bearing material.
• Anti-freeze will permanently poison oxygen sensors.

• Use a fan shroud at all times for cooling and safety.
• A 4 core radiator is a great help when HP goes up. Mandatory with high RPM stall torque converters.
• Plumb an automatic's extra cooler before the stock one to regulate the trans better. Too cool can be as bad as too hot.
• Engines live longer at 180-190 deg. Too cool causes excessive wear, too hot kills the oil.

• Polyurethane bushings and body mounts do help handling.
• Moog variable rate rear springs help consistancy of handling with varying loads.
• Larger diameter thin wall one piece drive shafts last far longer than original GTO ones. I use the largest (with neck downs) that will fit in the tunnel and put the old ends on it.
• Use rear universal joint girdles - the stock straps can't take much abuse.
• Use heim ends and straight rods for shifter linkage if you're speed shifting.
• Stick with heavy duty diaphragm pressure plates. If lighter peddle pressure is wanted, try a Borg & Beck style. I have seen too many Long style ones break.