The Fortress Group

I campaign a 1965 GTO at the local strips when time allows. The body was purchased in 1976, originally for spare parts, after it lost a fight with a tree . Then I had an attack of conscience because most of the car was great except the frame, hood, grills, rad., bumper, and front fenders. A branch dented the roof slightly, but that was easy to remedy. I saw so many nice race cars in the mags, that I decided to upgrade what was left of her to see if I could build something nice, but cheap.
The hood was a loss, so a hurt Tempest replacement was fixed and cut for the scoop. The fenders were hammered for 4 years until straight with no glass (so I take patience to the limit). The frame was straightened up front, and I narrowed the rear 12" following an article in 'Hot Rod'. After making my own offset rims for the 13 x 32 M&Hs, the car was ready for the street and strip with a new engine and 5.14 gears. We had alot of fun, and the car was great to drive. But then the stressed frame repairs up front started showing weakness.

Now the fun began. I resorted to the mags again for pictures and info for designing a new frame, suspension, and cage. I decided if they could do it, I could do it. A cradle with 1x6 wood rails was built to support the body under the rockers for total underneath access. The frame was dropped and the measuring started. The body would have to remain as intact as possible for the sake of decency and peace of mind.
You can't get enough measurements. Mount holes, clearances, suspension points, drive line mounts, etc. all have to be right the first time. Use the body and original frame for location points and draw it all to scale for continuous reference.
All welding was done with 7014 rod on tight joints. Minimum dressing was done to welds for strength. Gussets were added where stresses would be high, such as the front end extensions. A torch was never used for cutting to prevent embrittlement.

Her name is 'Carol's Worry' with a best time of 11.9 in the 1/4 before the gear change. Next time out I won't run out of RPMs so quick and the times should drop.

• FRAME
  • 14ga. 2"x3" tube is used for the rails and rear main cross member.
  • 14ga. 2"x2" tube is used for the front, trans, and hoop cross members.
  • 1/2"x3"x4" plates are used for the body mount tabs, with 1/2" aluminium spacers.
  • The 1/8"x1-1/2" pipe rear cross member was formed to clear the gas filler tube.
  • An Alston Racing drive shaft loop was used with 1" pipe braces.

• ROLL CAGE
  • Alston Racing main hoops were used with plenty of proper sized tubing.
  • A rear 'X' cage brace was not needed because the body and mods were strong enough.
  • The interior members were hidden as well as possible behind the body lines.
  • Trial fit seat position before the hoops are located. Here, feel is better than measure.
  • The forward supports are just beneath the dash.
  • I found a busted stock AM radio, ran it thru a band saw, and filled the dash location.

• SUSPENSION
  • I couldn't afford to purchase front struts, so I made them. Now I know why they cost so much.
  • Front brakes are discs with drum rears.
  • Baker Industries springs and heims are used thru out.
  • The rear 4-link is longer than most, with a track locator bar.
  • A pinto rack has tie rod extensions added and the flexable steering shaft was modified.
  • The tie rod ends and ball joints are heim joints.

• ENGINE
  • A .060" over '68 400 with alot of hand work, champhering, deburring, etc.
  • Forged TRW pistons oil drilled at the pin boss with Moly rings.
  • Massaged and polished Pontiac forged rods.
  • Balanced, and all clearances triple checked.
  • #48 heads, ported, with 1.6 roller rockers, 11/32" rods and guides, Crane springs.
  • A very old Crane roller cam that Crane was surprised still existed.(couldn't afford new)
  • Cloyes double roller chain set.
  • Recurved stock points distributor with Accel Super Coil.
  • '70 aluminium Q-J intake, matched to heads and cleaned out, with 2" spacer and highly modified Q-J. Idles at 900RPM nicely and tools around the pits clean.
  • Melling 455SD oil pump with SD shaft.
  • Appliance headers.
  • Reduction drive pulley.
  • Remote dual oil filters.

• TRANSMISSION
  • A modified Muncie has worked great,holding together even with the front wheels clearing the guard rails a few times.
  • Heim ends on 1/2" 4140 straight tubes and a tuned Hurst Super Shifter never fails.
  • The tunnel was enlarged with a removeable cover to clear the raised shifter mounting.

• REAR
  • The axle length is stock, with the mounts moved in for the offset rims. It looks like stock rims from the sides.
  • A chevy (no groans) 12-bolt has 3/16x1 pipe pinion-to-axle braces welded in.
  • I used Summers Brothers c-clip eliminators, Strange axles and alum. spool, and Moroso u-joint girdles.
  • I like Richmond Gears - this has 4.56s now. I broke 2 sets of Zoom gears in 2 weeks.
  • The wheels I needed were not available (3/9 offset) without selling the house.
  • I used 12.5"x15" implement rims with chome centers cut from a normal pair. Welding was done on a lathe to keep them straight.

• COOLING
  • A Sciroco rad was fitted with a new shroud and electric fan.